Thursday, June 13, 2024

The Moments You Missed At Australian Fashion Week 2024 | ELLE

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Australian Fashion Week is one of the most hotly-anticipated events in the sartorial calendar, and for good reason. From history-making runways, to trend-setting street style, there’s no shortage of creative inspiration to be had at the week-long event. 

Of course, with this year’s schedule jam-packed with up-and-coming designers and prolific brands, and a host of fashion’s elite making their way to Carriageworks to witness it all, it can be easy to miss some of the week’s best moments.

But we’ve got you covered. Below, all the best moments from Australian Fashion Week, as it’s happening.

At Albus Lumen, What’s Old Is New Again

Albus Lumen. Image: Getty

Opening the 2024 schedule was Albus Lumen, with their resort 25 collection, Rebellion. Presented to a crowd of 600, designer Marina Afonina delved into the archives, deconstructing and reimagining past designs to bring them back to life.

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Albus Lumen. Image: Getty

Our favourite moment? Models walked on clouds, via ballet slippers crafted from the softest silk.

Read our complete write-up of the gorgeous Albus Lumen Rebellion runway.

Viktoria & Woods Makes Their Australian Fashion Week Debut

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Viktoria & Woods. Image: Getty

For their first time on the Australian Fashion Week schedule, Melbourne brand Viktoria & Woods didn’t hold back. A blend of 90s minimalism and easy-to-wear elegance was on the agenda here, expertly executed via sleek column silhouettes, smart suiting, and standout evening wear. Footwear was another highlight, perhaps signifying a return of the sock and sandals trend, via leather knee-length socks worn with open-toe heels. 

The Next Generation Of Designers Make Their Mark

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Image: Getty

Arguably one of the most exciting benefits of Australian Fashion Week is the unique ability to foster new and emerging talent. Case in point? The Next Gen show, sponsored by DHL, which introduced us to Amy Lawrence, Emily Watson, House Of Campbell, and Potirakis.

P.E. Nation Puts A New Foot Forward

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PE Nation. Image: Getty

Iconic Aussie activewear activewear has entered a new era, and kicked off day two of AFW in the process. Elevated neutrals and sleek sheer fabrications reigned supreme on the runway, delivering plenty of inspiration for our new season activewear and errand-running wardrobes.

Liandra Celebrates First-Ever Show Solo AFW Show

Liandra, Australian Fashion Week.
Liandra. Image: Getty

Joy was chief on the agenda at Liandra’s first-ever solo Australian Fashion Week show — a fitting coincidence for the first sunny Sydney morning in weeks. Inspiration for the collection came from the Native Honey Bee, an important symbol for Liandra’s own clan in East Arnhem Land. “It’s definitely [referencing] the ability to be busy, but also enjoy the sweet moments that life does create along the way as well,” the designer told marie claire Australia.

Beare Park Forays Into Denim & Cashmere

The elevated womenswear brand is synonymous with suits and formalwear. However, at its 2024 Australian Fashion Week presentation, Beare Park declared its foray into denim.

“This is a true milestone for us, as these categories have been a long time coming,” designer Gabriella Pereira told ELLE Australia. “We are launching one pair of oversized denim shorts and two pairs of jeans in the show.”

Beare Park also celebrated with its first collection of 100% cashmere knitwear.

The collection, presented at the Art Gallery Of NSW, was full of gorgeous, floating sheer garments, as well as structured formalwear.

A partnership with Paspaley pearls offered a particularly stunning backless gown moment.

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A string of pearls for Beare Park at Fashion Week 2024. Image: Getty

“We are an Australian made brand that champions the use of natural fibres, quality and timelessness, making this partnership one of perfect alignment,” Pereira shared with ELLE.

Cool Girls Wear Chrome At Bec + Bridge

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Image: Getty

Bec + Bridge has debuted this season’s cool girl uniform, via their Resort 24/25 collection on Tuesday afternoon. Presented against a pristine background of afternoon sun bouncing off the white peaks of the Sydney Opera House, inside models stormed down the runway to an upbeat techno track.

The ancient craft of metalwork was key inspiration for design duo Bec Cooper and Bridget Yorston’s latest work, with pieces mimicking the malleability of molten metal in more ways than one: from form-fitting shapes, to chic accents of chrome.

EM On Holiday Has Us Dreaming Of Summer

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In need of a holiday? Emma Mulholland’s Resort 2025 collection might just be the next best thing. Titled ‘Pure Shores,’ the runway took AFW revellers on a nostalgic seaside vacation for their debut Australian Fashion Week show. The crackling of a radio, retro beachside accessories, and the shade of a palm tree were the perfect setting for this collection, which showcased elements from 60s, 70s and 80s, and distinctly holiday-inspired silhouettes. Think: graphic tees, playful prints, chunky beaded jewellery, and swimwear made for languid Summer afternoons. No PTO required.

Third Form Presents ‘re-FORM’ at Australian Fashion Week Debut

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Image: Getty

Understated elegance was on display at Third Form’s first solo show on the Australian Fashion Week schedule. Titled ‘re-form,’ the Resort 25 collection put wearable luxury at centre stage; a key signifier of the brand’s evolution into the premium contemporary market.

“Each garment in our Resort 25 collection is multifaceted, showcasing a symphony of colours, textures, and nuanced detailing. Our aim was to create pieces that transcend trends as an ode to the timeless allure of individual expression,” founder and director Merryn Kelly explained before the show.

The runway also marked Third Form’s transition into a ‘slow fashion’ model, with the runway collection available to buy from October, 2024.

Nicol + Ford Pay Homage To a Forgotten Figure In Sydney’s Underworld

Fetu Taku opens Nicol + Ford (Image: Getty)

For their third AFW presentation, couple and designer duo Katie-Louise and Lil Nicol-Ford found a muse in the in famous ”Witch of Kings Cross,” Rosaleen Norton.

The show opened with a thrilling performance by Fetu Taku, and showcased a darker (but just as joy-filled) collection than we’ve come to expect from the pair.

UGGs On The Runway At Verner

Getty Images

At Verner’s runway on Thursday morning, models hit the runway in some rather cosy footwear.

For the show, the Melbourne-based brand teamed up with UGG Express for the customisation of three different ugg boots and slippers by the brand EVERAU. The limited-edition capsule encapsulates the essence of Australian surf culture and was inspired by Verner’s Resort ’25 collection.

These bespoke designs will be auctioned off with within the coming weeks, with a potential limited-edition release on the horizon too.

Speed Shows At Sydney Aquarium

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For her latest Speed collection, Alvi Chung took revellers off-site to Sydney Aquarium. The battle with peak-hour city traffic was well worth it to watch the presentation, which was held beneath the sharks and rays in the underwater exhibit tunnel.

The Injury Starts Day Five With a Bang

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Day five of AFW began with a thumping bassline, as The Injury presented the latest chapter in its vision. Garbed in the brand’s signature gothic attire, models, including Australian singer May-a, stomped down the runway to an infectious beat. Notably, the brand’s metallic heart bags made an appearance, reinvented for the new season.

Wackie Ju Astonishes (Again)

Getty Images
Getty Images

Last year, Wackie Ju made an impression, with their debut Australian Fashion Week show heralded as one of the week’s best.

This year’s presentation was just as brilliant, with much of the house finding themselves misty-eyed at its close. While the show in its entirety was well-deserving of its standing ovation, it was undeniably the closing sequence of Wackie Ju 002, titled ‘Saviour’, that will stick in the front of viewers’ minds.

Garbed in a shearling wrap, model Rowena Xi Kang made her way down the runway, stopping at the end to pose. When the heavy beat of the music shifted into an alarm, a crop of suited figures emerged from the crowd, thrashing at the brunt wood props and ripping the shearling from her body. In doing so, they unveiled a striking gown beneath it. Watch the full show here.

Anna Quan Makes An Impact With Her Seventh AFW Runway

For her seventh runway at Australian Fashion Week, designer Anna Quan was inspired by the peaceful dance of light reflecting against water. It’s an idea that rang true for the entire collection: from free-flowing silhouettes that rippled with each step down the runway, right down to the gentle glint of silver eyeshadow brushed across model’s brows. “There are a lot of water features, motifs and wave references,” the designer told ELLE Australia.

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Image: Getty

But her latest collection was also rooted in practicality, with Quan responding to her customer’s desire to build a capsule wardrobe by introducing denim to her offering for the first time. Her favourite of this new addition? A double denim ensemble, of course.

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Image: Getty

And in testament to the brand’s sustained relevance, the designer also looked to the past for new inspiration, partnering with eBay to revive some of her most coveted archival styles.

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