Vietnamese-American designer Peter Do, who helms his own sought-after line, expressed his vision post-show, stating, “I feel like living in New York, a lot can happen in a day. So I feel like I want to provide a tool for you to be ready for whatever it takes.”
NEW YORK, NEW YORK – FEBRUARY 09: Irina Shayk walks the runway at the Helmut Lang Autumn/Winter 2024 show during New York Fashion Week at Weylin on February 09, 2024 in Brooklyn, New York.
Tasked with reimagining Helmut Lang’s iconic minimalist aesthetic, which greatly influenced 90s and 2000s fashion, Do’s creativity shone through. The brand, now under Japanese giant Fast Retailing’s umbrella alongside Uniqlo, saw a modern reinterpretation under Do’s direction.
The show, set within the confines of a former bank in Brooklyn’s trendy Williamsburg, paid homage to Lang’s innovative spirit. Do explored unconventional materials, including silk bubble wrap fashioned into pants and jackets, reminiscent of his predecessors’ artistic endeavors.
The collection showcased oversized wool coats, quilted jackets, turtlenecks, and hoods, all echoing themes of “protection and projection.” Some pieces drew inspiration from space suits, while the vibrant color palette harked back to Lang’s signature bright hues.
“I just want to see the street represented,” Do remarked, highlighting his desire for a collection grounded in everyday urban life.
New York Fashion Week, heralding the autumn-winter 2024 ready-to-wear season, unfolds with a flurry of shows, setting the stage for London, Milan, and Paris to follow suit. Notably, Lang’s influence led to a shift in the fashion week calendar, positioning New York as the opening city after his departure from Paris.
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This season promises a lineup of heavyweight American designers, including Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Kors, Thom Browne, and Tory Burch, alongside the likes of Carolina Herrera and Gabriela Hearst.
Adding to the anticipation, Paris-based designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin, known for his intimate androgynous designs, will grace New York Fashion Week with a rare showcase on Sunday evening, adding an extra layer of excitement to the proceedings.