New York Fashion Week: Highlights from the Fall-Winter 2024 runways | CNN



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As New York Fashion Week once again kicked off across Manhattan and Brooklyn this weekend, designers offered enticing twists on familiar dress codes.

Inside the neoclassical Williamsburgh Savings Bank, Peter Do rethought “protective” fashion for his sophomore showing at the helm of Helmut Lang, sending out silk bubble wrap trousers, knit balaclavas emerging from smart suiting, weathered sand-colored denim and soft armor in the form of slouchy puffer jackets.

Soon after, in Rockefeller Center, models pumping gourd barbells showcased Collina Strada’s delightfully femme take on sports uniforms and gymwear, wearing “elegantly beefed-up silhouettes” — per the show notes — that included lace-trimmed boxing shorts and voluminous jackets mimicking bulging deltoids and biceps.

Throughout the collection, bubble tops and outerwear echoed beefy musculature.

Then there were the designers updating American dress codes more broadly, whether in their own contexts or anew. Tommy Hilfiger’s return to the runway — attended by the brand’s ambassador Sofia Richie Grange, among other celebrities, and ushered in with an opening performance by Jon Batiste — showcased new takes on prep classics that the brand itself established in the 1990s, with boxy tweed coats, varsity jackets, cashmere dresses and long, bulky scarves.

And Willy Chavarria, who previously held a top spot at Calvin Klein in addition to running his own namesake label, brought a bold vision of American power dressing to the runway through layers and structure, with exaggerated shoulders, sharp lapels and sweeping coats offset by ruffles and sculptural florals, all with Chicano-influenced flair. Seated front row for both Chavarria’s runway and an accompanying fashion film presentation, which spoke to community as a respite from the world’s ills, were Julia Fox, Sam Smith, Dascha Polanco and Becky G.

Of course, not all designers set out to re-write the rules, with Prabal Gurung telling CNN backstage that he doesn’t get too preoccupied with whether his new collection will be fashion-forward. Like Chavarria, Gurung also took inspiration from community and family, mining his childhood diaries and heritage to create looks — which were richly colored in hues of saffron and vermillion, and embellished with crystals and gold embroidery — that paid tribute to his father’s family in Nepal.

“What I want to think about is like, ‘Is this a story that I wanted to tell? That I feel confident about? That I can do justice?’” Gurung explained. “You can’t predict what’s going to be cool — I’ve never worried about that. I just want to share a little piece of my world.”

Scroll down to see this season’s runway highlights, which will be updated throughout the week.

Prabal Gurung’s collection was both melancholic and dreamlike. Gurung said he had transformation and metamorphosis on his mind.
Gurung developed the concept for his show while on a 10-day meditative retreat.
For his sophomore show with Helmut Lang, Peter Do continued to form new dress codes for New Yorkers. This collection is “a system of dress” in “a world of chaos,” according to the show notes.
Do mulled on themes of “protection” versus “projection” for the show, and played with techniques such as bubble wrap made from silk for the former.
Do also revisited Helmut Lang archival pieces from Spring 2003 as jumping-off points.
Willy Chavarria introduced handbags this season, pairing them with layered suiting and bold, exaggerrated silhouettes.
Chavarria presented the collection with a film called “Safe from Harm,” emphasizing the importance of community.
Baggy bomber jackets and 1980s-inspired leather jackets were among the outerwear offerings.
Wide lapels and wider shoulders played against bubble hemlines on the runway.
Libertine’s graphics this season were not quite inspired by fever dreams, but a hypnotism session that kept returning to the fashionable late art collector Peggy Guggenheim.
The collection was often matchy-matchy across garments and accessories and played with a number of eye-catching graphics.
Kim Shui’s show celebrated Lunar New Year on the eve of the holiday with vibrant colors and vegan materials.
Shui's collection ushers in the year of the dragon, paying tribute to the mythical creature's “strength and resilience,” according to the show notes.
The runway was on fire at The Blonds, with the incomparable designers showcasing the power of
The collection paid homage both to the designers' roots, and the Latin pop divas they've long idolized, from Charo and Selena Quintanilla to J.Lo and Christina Aguilera.
Across lustrous textiles, sparkling jewels and sinuous silhouettes, the collection showcased fire as an embodiment of
Proenza Schouler creative directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez offered up ample wintery whites and continued to play with both translucent layers and elegant takes on suiting and outerwear this season.
The label has taken a more cumulative approach to design across seasons, continuing to build on the same ideas rather than overhaul them for new collections.
Highlights included tall cowl neck collars, asymmetrical cuts, knit capes and long apron dresses.
Tommy Hilfiger’s refigured classics sought to define American prep for 2024.
Christian Siriano looked to the cinematic world of
Body-conscious draped gowns in rich, burnt oranges represented the films' desert landscapes; black
Eckhaus Latta’s earth tone palette included sandblasted denim this season.
Model Alex Wek closed the show in a layered column dress and furry mules.
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